A picture of Kaikōura is likely pinned on the inspiration board of every British seaside town, an aspiration that the likes of Brighton and Blackpool inevitably fall short of. Kaikōura is rustic, but not in the way that is synonymous with cheap and tacky. There is an absence of the hedonism that is characteristic to British seaside towns, there are no arcades, gambling halls or theme parks. This facade is of course to draw in thrill seekers and holidaymakers seeking an escape from daily monotony. But in New Zealand, tourists are drawn instead to the sincerity of small coastal towns as a different type of escape. The waterfront is not overcrowded with tourist traps and the high street is well set back from the coast. The honey pot of Kaikōura is not any gaudy man made attraction, but the stretch of stunning unbuilt upon coastline. 

Kaikōura is the gemstone of New Zealand’s eco-tourism, where mountains meet the sea. Limestone cliffs and grassy knolls shape Kaikōura’s peninsula, with towering mountains to the west that overlook the coastal town. Golden shores, native greenery and turquoise waters paint Kaikōura’s stunning palette. Kaikōura is a mere two and a half hour drive north from Christchurch. From Christchurch the eastern highway hugs the coast, particularly 20km each side of Kaikōura. The road underpasses limestone arches and winds around rocky coves. As you pass by the small alcoves, you can spot the local residents: New Zealand fur seals. If you cast your eyes further into the bay, you may spot a pod of dolphins. 

Kaikōura diverts the tourists base desire for hedonism into reconnecting with nature, its many tourist activities and advertised walks encourage meeting with the local wildlife. The thrill of Kaikōura is watching a dolphin leap out of the deep waters or a baby fur seal playing in the rock pools. The most trampled of these walks is the Kaikōura peninsula walkway, which reaches from town all the way around the headland to South Bay. Many holidaymakers undertake a small part of this walk from Point Kean to a viewing area which is the home of a New Zealand fur seal colony. 

At all times of year, hundreds upon hundreds of these beautiful creatures can be seen lounging in the sun or playing in the water. We have rambled to the colony twice over, once in summer and once in winter. It was during our second visit in the midwinter that we chanced upon a small rocky cave hidden beneath the brush from which odd noises were coming. Incredibly high pitched squeaking is the best way to articulate it. Our curiosity peaked, we knelt and brushed the plants aside to discover three baby seals. Calling to their mother, their safe haven was compromised. We observed the precious tiny animals from a safe distance before leaving them hidden in the cave, content to gate-keep our discovery. 

Kaikōura is home to an abundance of marine life. Visitors of this natural playground can swim with dolphins or venture on a whale watching tour. On our summer visit we decided to rent a kayak and explore the bay ourselves. We departed from South Bay and rounded the headland into Whalers Bay. Here we rowed to land for rest, which was deserted except for a handful of seals who colonised the beach. We were allowed to step onto the beach and  get within a double kayak length distance from the creatures which was an incredible experience. Unbothered by our invasion, the seals basked in the afternoon sun. When we departed the beach, we passed by many more seals lounging on nearby rocks and some submerged in the ocean. It was an experience much more satisfying than winning a slot machine at Brighton beach. 

Kaikōura has the small town charm of locally owned retailers and establishments. The most famed of these is Nin’s bin, a generationally family owned seafood kiosk known for its barbecued crayfish. This roadside cafe is full of personality, literally being a tin container plastered with graphic seafood insignia. But restaurants with this minimalist set up often means they do not compromise on the quality of food. Freshly caught seafood, quite literally fresh out of the sea and transported about 10 feet, is the specialty delicacy of Kaikōura. 

Kaikōura champions its stunning natural setting and significant marine occupants. It is the perfect weekend getaway destination to soak in sunshine and wilderness. Seals may out-populate people in this small paradise, so it is a honour to be able to share in their beautiful home for a few hours.