Central Otago

Central Otago is a dark spot on most guide books maps of New Zealand. A small cluster of towns labelled in humble lowercase and not marked with colour or illustrations to signal that this place is of any significance. It sits in the tourists blind spot, with the tourism giants of Queenstown and Mt Aspiring to its west and Dunedin to the east, all of which fall under the umbrella of Otago. But the often forgotten fact about overlooked areas is this is exactly where you go to find hidden gems.

Otago is best known for the gold rush of 1861. This pillaging of natural resource lasted until the late 60’s when gold seekers migrated to the more fruitful west coast. The towns of Alexandra, Clyde and Cromwell are relics of the gold mining era, with their saloon architecture intact and backcountry personalities. Visit a tavern for a taste of outback living or a boutique store for a sample of local industry. Replace the 21st century vehicle with men on horseback and the scene would not be amiss. These industrial towns are perfect remains of a time gone by and a spyglass into the life of the working class kiwi in the 19th century. You can even visit the ghost town of Bendigo and see the original structures lived in by Otago gold miners. 

Central Otago has generally much flatter terrain than its eastern and western counterparts and for this reason is very popular for cycling. Cycle paths, such as the Clutha gold trail, which trace the gold mining sites across Otago. But Central Otago is more contemporarily regarded for its agricultural industry, specifically fruit. It hosts many orchards which open their market doors in spring and summer. Whilst there is an abundance of flat farmland, central Otago still has large sloping hills that frame the fields. It is much alike the Yorkshire Dales except maybe on a more magnificent scale. In spring, there are a plethora of lambs across the grassy slopes.

But Central Otago also has its own unique topographical and geological formations. Kawarau gorge is a deep chasm through which the Kawarau river rushes for over 25 hectares. A bike trail chases the river from above the gorge and offers stunning views of the ravine. Beside the gorge are gentle mountains that if you look closely at their face you may spot wild goats climbing. Unique geology also surrounds the town of Alexandra. Thousands and thousands of individual rock columns and pillars are scattered across the hills for miles. It is a natural wonder that surprised us as it seems to be absent from guide books. 

The most impressive of all hidden gem that we discovered was in the hamlet of St Bathan’s. I recall simply needing somewhere to rest during our road trip and searching for the nearest attraction. Having never heard even rumblings of this towns existence, I had no expectations. To call it a town is generous, there is one tavern and a handful of homes and a campsite. It was historically a settlement for miners during the Otago gold rush and it’s infrastructure has been preserved almost perfectly since that time. But St Bathans charm is in its lake which is cut into the rock like a quarry. With creamy limestone walls, willow trees lining the shore and beautiful turquoise waters it is serenity made manifest. It is easily one of the most tranquil places to swim, boat or fish in the South Island, a true forgotten paradise. 

Central Otago is also home to the much vaster Lake Dunstan, which links the towns of Clyde and Cromwell on each edge. Recent infrastructural projects in the area gave birth to the Lake Dunstan bike trail, which bridges these towns and follows the river edge. This included some impressive structural creativity, with boardwalks built into the sides of the mountain face that lines the lake that allow you to cycle directly above the lakes edge and several suspension bridges.  You can also treat yourself to a burger at a floating cafe halfway through the bike ride. It is my favourite bike ride that we have done to date, crossing beautiful sandy reserves and lakeside boardwalks with beautiful views all the way through. 

The recent construction of the Lake Dunstan trail has taken strides to draw more much deserved attention to Central Otago. But now that I have pointed to Central Otago on the map, you know exactly where to find some of New Zealand’s most underrated treasures.