The West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island is best regarded as ‘the glacier highway’. This is fitting seen as what I recollect most about this expanse of coast is their highway. The highway runs straight as an arrow along the coastline, making it all too easy to bypass the region’s small towns and quaint beaches. The main tourist attractions, Frans Josef and Fox glaciers, are heavily signposted on the road and can be viewed from the highway. The highway itself looks out onto Tasman sea and offers spectacular views of the southern alps. The average visitor could see all the wonders they believe the West Coast to hold from their car window. 

Truth be told, in Westland Tai Poutini national park (glacier country) the best view you will achieve without a minimum 5 hour laborious hike or helicopter is to drive through. Fox glacier viewpoint is under reconstruction after a landslide and is currently only visible from a nondescript point on a road 20 kilometres away. Whilst Frans Josef does offer a viewpoint, it is a mere 20 metres from the carpark. So unless you brave a long gruelling hike, which I dare say the average visitor does not, the west coast can become a drive-by. 

This is a fate however easily remedied by a bit of advance research. Venture beyond the well treaded glacial viewpoints, and find a myriad of treasures nestled along the west coast. The first of these is Hokitika gorge, which offers a short loop track through emerald native bush. Following the white limestone cliffs of the gorge which are infilled with crystal turquoise waters this trail offers both spectacular forestry and stunning views of the glacially dyed water from suspension bridges. It is a place that is testament to my theory that all natural colours seem brighter in New Zealand. Hokitika is also home to a glow worm dell. Visitors who enter the grand chasm will witness its ceiling lit up with thousands of the iridescent creatures.

The West Coast also offers its own classic New Zealand idyll, a reflective alpine lake, Lake Matheson. Positioned before Fox Glacier, the lakes glacial water offers a panoramic reflection of a number of the famous southern alps including Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. These snow-capped peaks appear perfectly inversed on a clear and windless day. The lake is lined by a tall forest, its tree line offering a beautiful complexity to the reflection. 

The West Coast is also the mother of a number of coastal lagoons. We visited Ōkārito lagoon, a stunning sheltered wetland which is rife with bird life. A boardwalk meanders across the vulnerable lagoon, both protecting and providing up close encounters with its inhabitants. Wading birds like the oyster catcher, as well as black swans and paradise shellduck grace the gentle waters. But these waters are habitat to rarer dwellers, like the white-faced heron. These elegant birds are deep blue-grey in colour, sporting white plumage exclusively on their face. Even rarer still, the purely white heron is considered almost mythical with sightings very rare. We were incredibly lucky enough to see a white heron fishing up close at the edge of the lagoon. 

We also made use of the regions generous camping grounds. We spent the night at Gillespies beach, an incredible white sand beach which simultaneously offers a glimpse of the Southern Alps to the east. The beach domain was once an old mining settlement and now home to a fur seal colony. The newest tenants of Gillespies beach can be seen from a short distance along the coastline. 

Albeit there are many more secluded options, the traveller comes to glacier country for a reason. For those already predisposed to look off the beaten path, or in this case the paved highway, the glacier highway does offer more intrigue. Many companies offer the opportunity for heli-hiking, dropping a tour off for a short tramp on the glacial ice. We decided instead to undertake the Roberts Point track which climbs 800 metres through dense forest to the bushline, where a viewpoint leaves you face to face with Franz Josef glacier. This hike was one of the most technical we have completed, including a staircase on a cliff-face and extensive scrambling sections. But it was well worth it for the ever present views over the glacial basin and the final viewpoint.  This resonates with The West Coast as a whole. The true beauty of the area does not make itself easy available. But with effort and an adventurous spirit, every second along the west coast is vastly worth it.